Posts Tagged ‘Soweto’

Look Out, Advice Columnists. You Never Met My Mother-in-Law.

May 12, 2012

This is a portrait I painted of my mother-in-law last year.

If we were ever to levy a special tax on advice columnists, the money should go to mothers-in-law. According to the advice-seekers, the only thing harder than planning a wedding, making your marriage work or raising kids is keeping your mother-in-law at bay. Flushed with her own success at raising your spouse, there is no aspect of your household immune to her interference.

But if everyone had a mother-in-law like mine, the advice columnists would be out of business.

I actually didn’t meet my mother-in-law, Anita, until a few days before my husband, Lala, proposed. I was the first girlfriend he had ever brought home (not for lack of candidates over the years), and it wasn’t a matter of heading across town or even across the country. I had just made my first-ever transatlantic flight and it was my first time in my husband’s native South Africa. His mom and dad have lived in a house in Soweto, outside Johannesburg, for almost thirty years.

While Lala and his father lifted suitcases out of the trunk, I went in the front door. I had waited four years to see my boyfriend’s childhood home. Anita was waiting in the living room. She hugged me before I could introduce myself.

Some people have trouble figuring out just how to address their in-laws. My husband’s parents have insisted on being “Mama” and “Papa” to me since before I ever walked into their house.

“Ah, my daughter,” Papa says when I sit next to him on the couch. “Thank you, my daughter,” Mama says when I hand her a plate.

Mealtime in her house always accounts for every family member. No-one is required to be home for dinner. But if you’re sleeping in the house, a full plate will be put aside for you, carefully covered, until you get home.

Some mothers-in-law are known for their iron grip on the kitchen. But when I visit South Africa, I get free rein, no questions asked, with my sisters-in-law leaning in to observe the process. My culinary free-for-alls there include but are not limited to spaghetti, pancakes for supper and Thanksgiving dinner, all of which had never been served to the household before.

Not that Mama hasn’t taught me a thing or two. I never learned the best way to separate a chicken drumstick from the thigh until she showed me. She finds me, an American child of an electric dryer, at the clothes-lines behind the house. Cotton and denim that wrinkles and wads in my hands submit to her immediately, hanging like breeze-kissed pennants of cleanliness with a few expert clips of the clothes-pins (or pegs, as they’re called there).

Some mothers-in-law seem to feel that every moment you are not pregnant with their grandchild is wasted. But Mama, herself a mother of six, offers no comment on the issue.  Throughout the years, Papa has kept mostly to one comment.

“One day,” he says, “God will bless you.”

I feel a special bond with Mama because in the Mabaso household, we’re both makoti, the bride. In my husband’s culture, the bride is not a role that finishes on your wedding day – it’s a lifelong mantle of duty and respect. She became makoti when she married Papa in the early seventies. Since Lala has four sisters (three married with their own children) and an unmarried brother, I am the only makoti of my generation in the Mabaso household.

Not that the neighbors are willing to believe it.

One night, while I chatted with Papa in front of the TV, Mama burst out in chuckles.

“My friends asked me, who is that white woman at your house?” she said. Her friends had decided I was a visiting co-worker of Lala’s.

“I told them, it is my daughter,” Mama laughed.

Mama has never failed to treat me like her own daughter, besides taking me firmly in hand in matters of laundry. During my first visit to South Africa, I quickly came down with a nasty cold, probably caught on the long flight. I was up coughing in the middle of the night, and she appeared in the dark with a mug of tea.

Mama has a magic in her fingers that not even her grown daughters can match. Look at the head-wrap I am wearing in this photo with Lala’s sister Nthabiseng. She arranged it with a few bobby pins in a matter of seconds. I wish I could wear it every week.

This is from a wedding in Soweto last year. Female guests often put on traditional African garb to celebrate. Since we’re both Tsonga brides, I had the honor of wearing Mama’s own wedding outfit. (Ntabiseng married a Zulu man, so her outfit is different. Our new nephew’s birth is weeks away).

Mama and Papa have stories that should never be lost. Lala was born in 1982, a time when violence and mass protests against South Africa’s apartheid regime roiled the black townships surrounding Johannesburg. Afrikaner tanks patrolled the neighborhood where my husband walked to preschool.

In the 70’s, Mama and Papa had harrowing experiences typical of a generation of black South Africans.

Mama and Papa, around the time they got married.

Every black citizen who wanted to move beyond their designated township was required to carry a passbook, known as a dom pas, that authorized his or her presence in the area. In Afrikaans, according to my husband, dom means “dumb” or “fool”.  Blacks had to obtain special living permits, and their movements outside their own neighborhoods, into areas reserved for whites, were determined by their employers, whose dom pas stamps authorized workers’ presence in the company’s city. Anyone white could ask for it at any time. If you didn’t have it, you were arrested.

Now, the musty dom pas books are stashed in drawers like old tax forms (Mama and Papa never throw anything away).

Before the late eighties, if the city you were in didn’t match the city stamp on your dom pas, you were arrested. All employees were required to get a monthly signature in the dom pas from their employers. If the signature was missing, you were arrested. If the signature was made in the wrong page, you were arrested. If the signature was not made before seventh of the month, you were arrested.

Mama and Papa had plenty of experience with employer’s stamps. Papa, now retired, worked several jobs over the years, often as a welder, and Mama was a seamstress until her retirement last year. Mama’s name is misspelled in her book. This was very common. There was no point in trying to get it fixed. It was just one more reminder of what a second-class citizen you were.

“Permitted to remain in the prescribed area….” A page from the dom pas Mama had in the 70′s and 80′s.

Papa was arrested in Germiston in 1976: his employer had suddenly moved operations there from Johannesburg without issuing him a new dom pas. He was stopped and taken right off the street, but released with a warning when his employer vouched for his presence in the city.

Another of Papa’s arrests had to have been as harrowing for Mama as it was for him.

In 1975, with the three children they had at the time staying with relatives, Mama and Papa took the risk of renting a room in Pimville without getting a permit to live there.

These permits cost R2.50 per year, Papa explained. At the time, that was more than many black families could afford. Today, one US dollar is worth approximately seven rands. In the mid-1980s, Papa made R140 per week working Monday through Saturday.

One morning at 4am, they woke up to pounding at the door. Mama dashed to the wardrobe and hid herself inside. When Papa opened the door, police officers interrogated him.

“Where’s your permit?” they demanded. He had none.

“Where is your wife?” He said he didn’t know where she was. Papa was determined to go calmly and gave no sign that anyone else was hiding there. The wardrobe wasn’t searched. He was forced into the police car and taken to jail.

“What did you do?” I asked Mama breathlessly.

“I went to work,” she said. She hid until everything was quiet, and the next morning, she had no choice but to head to work as usual. Phones were scarce. If she went to the police to ask where Papa was, she would have been immediately arrested as well. She couldn’t ask any neighbors – she knew that someone in the neighborhood had reported them to the police, but had no way of knowing who.

Papa spent the rest of the night and the next day in jail. R10 was the usual fee for bail.

“At that time, ten rands was scarce,” he said.

All Mama could do was wonder and wait. Papa returned that evening, unharmed. He had been questioned, and then the judge shocked him by releasing him, with strict orders not to tell any of his neighbors how leniently he had been treated.

I asked Papa if would have predicted the end of Apartheid. At the time, “I didn’t think it would ever be different,” he said.

I asked Mama what it was like, trying to raise her family at that time.  I expected something profound on keeping a family intact under terrible oppression. She surprised me by side-stepping the question.

She explained that Papa’s family wanted them to take the children and move back to the rural eastern province, near today’s Kruger Park, where she and Papa grew up. But she wanted to stay in Johannesburg so that she could keep working, not leave for a quiet, traditional life the countryside.

“I didn’t want to sit in Bushbuck Ridge,” she said.

Mama lived through terrifying times, but her concerns were the same as any working woman. Despite the incredible gulf between our experiences, we are not such different women, after all.

Happy Mother’s Day, Mama!

Mama and I outside Lala’s childhood home in Soweto. (We both like purple.)

The Linguist’s Comeuppance

August 11, 2011

Take that, American linguaphiles.

Without even leaving her home country, my husband Lala’s little niece Manqoba is already presenting a challenge to my American relatives. I can see the anxiety in family members’ eyes when we talk about Lala’s rambunctious nthukhulu.

“Man-koba? Is that it?” They say hopefully.

Manqoba’s mother and father are Nthabiseng and Mandlakayise. Her name, which means “victor”, is Zulu.

I’m a girl who was called “the Dictionary” in elementary school. All my life, people have been asking me, “is that a word?” “how do you spell it?” and “what does that word mean?” Not only am I a writer. I’m sort of an English whiz who chased my etymological obsession through five years of Latin. I never studied for school vocabulary tests. I was born with spell-check in my head. I was one smart cookie.

But when I visited my husband’s family home, not only was I surrounded by toddlers who speak three or four languages without even trying; I was reduced to learning letter sounds. Papa (Lala’s father Josiah, a Tsonga man whose name is really Matshikete) gave me a new education on “c”, “q”, and “x”.  Zulu and Tsonga are both frequently spoken at the Mabaso household, and “x”, already shifty enough when it comes to American usage (“fox”, “xylophone”, or even the phonetic pandemonium of a Philadelphia restaurant called Xochitl) has a whole other life in South African languages. In Tsonga, “x” is a soothing “sh” sound. But in Zulu, it’s a click. Actually, each of the letters I mentioned above has its own unique click sound.

Papa taught me the difference. He bounced his tongue off of the highest part of his palette, and a sound like the clop of a horse hoof on cement resounded throughout the house. That click is a Zulu “q”, as in “Manqoba”. To make a Zulu “c”, bounce the tip of our tongue off the very top of your palate, just behind your front teeth, like a “tsk tsk” sound. Try it: cela means “ask”. To make an “x” sound, bounce the side of your tongue off the inside of your teeth on one side, like the sound you’d use to encourage a horse.  Try it: ixoxo, gloriously, means “frog” (and that “i” makes an “ee” sound).

Including English, South Africa has eleven official languages. Many are related: for example, speakers of Zulu, Xhosa (practice your “x”) and Ndebele can often understand each other, because their languages have similar origin. People who speak Setswana or Sotho (“sue-too”) dialects have common ground in a second language group.

“Please please teach me how to speak Venda, people,” says our nephew Karabo on Facebook. Comments imply that there may be a girl involved. Venda belongs to a third language group, and it’s one of the few languages in Johannesburg that my husband can’t understand. My husband’s home language, Tsonga, belongs to a fourth category, which has its roots in the Shangaan people’s Xishangana, though it’s influenced by the Zulu group.

For a few mornings, I proudly greeted my in-laws with avuxeni, (practice your Tsonga “x”) meaning “morning” or, as a greeting, “good morning”. Then one day Lala pulled me aside and quietly explained that dumela would be more appropriate for his mother, whose own family language is actually of the Sotho grouping, not the Shangaan. Another appropriate Sotho greeting is okayi  (which, depending on context, means “where are you?” or “how are you doing?”), to which one responds, keteng (“I’m fine”).  When addressing more than one person, the greeting becomes lekayi – though this is also used to address a single person to whom you want to show respect, like a family elder.

Meanwhile, Lala’s Zulu brother-in-law, Mandlakayise (Mandla for short), was teaching me Zulu greetings, which vary according to whether you’re addressing one person or many: sawubona for one becomes sanbonani  for more than one – unless you want to use a different greeting.

I decided to practice when a nice little boy on his way home from school said “hello” as he passed us in the street.

“Ninjani!” I replied. “Is that right?” I whispered to Lala.

“Sort of,” he said encouragingly. “You have the right idea. But ninjani is Zulu and he’s actually Sotho. And really, ninjani  means ‘hello to all of you’.”

“How do you know he’s not Zulu?”

“His school uniform. They speak Sotho in that school.”

“So what should I have said?”

“Well, if he was Zulu it would be unjani  – that’s the casual version. If you want to be correct, though, it’d be gunjani to say hello to one person.”

“But that kid wasn’t even Zulu!”

“Anyway, he knew what you meant. Good job, babe.”

Right.

A family’s home language is determined by its patriarch, so I decided to focus on my Tsonga vocabulary, even though Tsonga is not one of the languages primarily spoken in  my in-laws’ home neighborhood of Soweto, outside Johannesburg.

Though Tsonga lacks the “click” sounds which, to many Americans, would typify an African language, many of its words are gorgeous multisyllabic journeys which mash all kinds of consonants together in the most cavalier way, like lwandlenkulu, which undulates as smoothly as the ocean it describes, or Nhlampfi, meaning “fish”. Xinghezi means “English” and xinyenyana means “bird”.

I was pleased to have mastered this, and then was baffled for an entire afternoon as Mandla and Nthabiseng’s kids repeatedly peeked out the front door and then surged back through the living room screaming “ijuba! IJUBA!!” It’s Zulu for pigeon, I learned, like the one that was roosting above the front porch.

A common Tsonga sound can baffle most English-speakers. How would you say nhlekani, meaning “afternoon”, or, as a greeting, “good afternoon”? That “hl” sound can be a demon for non-native speakers. Arch your tongue and put the tip of it against the back of your front teeth, ready to make an “L” sound. Blow gently out of your mouth, around the sides of your tongue, and let the air roll in to the “L”.

Now you can say Nelson Mandela’s real name. He is Xhosa, and Nelson is the name a white elementary school teacher once assigned him, because she couldn’t pronounce his real name: Rolihlahla. By the way, make that “r” a guttural, back-of-the-throat “h”, kind of like the sound we make when we imitate a cat’s hiss. As perhaps the best-chosen name of all time, literally translated, Rolihlahla means “one who shakes the branches of the tree”, or one who alters the established order.

My Tsonga vocabulary might please my father-in-law, but out and about in Johannesburg, I was surrounded mostly by Zulu or Sotho speakers. At stores and restaurants, I constantly chickened out, saying “thank you” instead of “ngiyabonga” or “ke ale boga” because I didn’t know which language to use for which individual – or if they belonged to a tribe whose language I hadn’t even heard of.

Even offering a drink to workers re-doing my in-laws’ ceiling proved challenging. They stared at me curiously as I tried English, Zulu, Sotho and Tsonga to ask them if they wanted water… manzimetzimati?  Finally I went to the kitchen and returned, hoisting a glass of water in my hand. I am not sure if I had the wrong languages altogether or if my pronunciation was so bad they couldn’t understand me. Maybe the prospect of a white American girl traipsing unheralded into a Soweto household to interrupt their work was overtly bizarre. Or maybe they just weren’t thirsty.

I picked up several words around the house, mostly courtesy of the kids, who demanded a lot of isinkwa (bread) and often endured “vala!” at high volumes from Papa, demanding that they close the door.

Lala and I set out on a city-wide search for African language books that catered to English-speakers. There were African-language books teaching Afrikaans (one of the official eleven, a variant of 17th-century Dutch spoken by most white South Africans) and Afrikaans books teaching English. We searched street stalls, malls, bookstores and school supply outlets for English books teaching Zulu, Sotho or Tsonga.

Even official college-supply staffers were nonplussed at best, irritated at worst.

“We don’t have that kind of book,” they said. “I never heard of anything like that.”

One kind staffer took pity on us, though she warned that she didn’t think any English-to-Zulu/Sotho books existed. She waved us behind the counter to the stacks of the school-supply center. As long as we left our backpacks at the register, we were free to comb the shelves ourselves.

We worked our way up and down the rows for a long time. I thumbed fruitlessly through volumes of African poetry and literature, and Afrikaans workbooks, searching for a title, any title, in English.

“Lala!” I cried at last. I seized a large, thin book from the elementary shelves.

It was “My Zulu Word Book”. It was full of lists of Zulu words opposite lists of English words. Jackpot. After a further search, with the renewed help of the slightly sheepish employee, we also found “Say It In Zulu” for grown-ups.

But it was the kids’ book that really caught my fancy, because of the picture on its cover. A terrified little white girl in a yellow blouse and hair-ribbon opens a box with rats, ticks, roaches, mosquitoes, fleas, spiders and bees bursting out of it. Whether this is supposed to offer some sort of commentary on what happens to white girls who want to learn Zulu is anybody’s guess.

“Can you stop that?” my husband mumbled one night from his pillow. Without realizing it, I had been staring into the dark, clicking my tongue to make the Zulu “q”, “x”, and “c”, over and over again. I’m back in the US now, returning with relief to the single language that got me a reputation as a pretty smart chick – until I met my niece Manqoba and the natural-born linguists of the Rainbow Nation.

How To Become a Grandmother at 27

February 12, 2011

This is the second post of a series on a visit to my South African in-laws. Find additional installments in the “South Africa” category.

Let’s be clear: I don’t have any children. And I used to have only one mother, one father, and one brother. When I married into an African  family, I didn’t know just how much my immediate family was about to expand.

“Abuti” means brother in Sotho (pronounced “Sue-too”), one of the languages primarily spoken in Johannesburg. “Abuti” is often shortened to “abu” and added to the name of your brother. “Ausi” means sister and is used the same way. After our transatlantic flight, we are reunited past customs with Aus’Nthabi, Abu’Thabo and Papa (Lala’s father Josiah). The Philadelphia autumn is worlds away as we head into a beautiful summer morning and pack ourselves and our luggage into two small cars. Lala rides with Papa and Aus’Nthabi, and I rode with Abu’Thabo, hurtling onto the left side of the highway.

As we pull up to Lala’s childhood home in Diepkloof, a neighborhood of the famous Soweto district of Johannesburg, Papa shoos me away from the luggage, and I step in the front door. My in-laws’ one-floor house is immaculate, but not because we are arriving. It is a house where everyone scours the bathtub with cleaner after he or she uses it – every time.  As our arrival brings the population of the house up to eight adults, it may be the world’s cleanest bathtub.

The house smells faintly of detergent and fresh produce. The only signs of disorder are the hurricanes of scribbles on the walls of the single hallway, which, like cave art, hint at a different way of life – one which would begin at about 3 o’clock, when the kids would come home from daycare (“crèche”). Lala’s mother Anita welcomes me at the door. She’s thin from a recent illness, but her beauty is still striking – it’s where Lala got his handsome eyes.

When I was growing up, I always understood the boundaries between family members. While extended family was much loved, distinctions between parents and grandparents, parents and aunts or uncles, and even first and second cousins were observed, and the only time the entire family might be together was Christmas.

Lala has five siblings, who, though they maintain their own houses and growing families, come and go at will in their childhood home. There is never any question of invitations, or of there being enough room for any family who wants to spend the weekend. Now stick with me. Your father’s sisters are your aunts, but your mother’s sisters are not; they are extra mothers. Your mother’s or father’s brother is your uncle (malume, “mah-loom-ay”), and his children are your cousins (if you want to be picky about defining things like that), but your maternal aunt’s kids are not your cousins; they’re your siblings. Hence Anita’s sister Maki is not our aunt, but one of several mothers to the nieces and nephews by birth and marriage of two generations. Mama Maki’s daughter Boitumelo is not Lala’s cousin, but his sister. Got it?

Lala became an uncle at five years old, when his oldest sister Priscilla had the first of her three daughters, Ntsako.  Ntasko grew up in her grandparents’ house like a sister to Lala. You might think that being an uncle at five years old is impressive, but Lala’s youngest sister, Puseletso, was an aunt from birth. Ntsako was older than her infant aunt Puseletso by about three years. To the young Puseletso’s chagrin, as she, Lala, and Ntsako grew up side by side, Ntsako’s seniority in age trumped any more traditional notions of an aunt’s seniority to her niece. When provoked by Ntsako, Puseletso’s screams of “but I am your aunt!” were to no avail. To me, who as a child was always interested in the distinction between first and second cousins, being your niece’s younger sister was a new one.

Lala and Puseletso became a great-uncle and great-aunt at 24 and 16, respectively, with the birth of Ntsako’s daughter Neo. At 11 years old, being an aunt to Neo is already old hat for aus’Priscilla’s second daughter, Takatso. And three years after she became a grandmother with Neo’s birth, aus’Priscilla and her husband welcomed their third daughter, Musa. It remains to be seen whether history will repeat itself, with Neo lording her age over her young aunt Musa.

In the US, there’s a big difference between your siblings and your in-laws. But to the Mabasos, the fact that I was born on the other side of the world – to a different continent, a different culture, and a different race – has no bearing on the relationships sealed by my marriage.  Anita and Josiah call me their daughter. My sisters-in-law introduce me as their sister.

The next generation is still in full swing. With Lala’s sister Nthabi, her husband Mandla and their kids staying with Anita and Josiah, the torrent of toddlers continues unabated today, which happens to be Papa’s 71st birthday.

The full implication of this inclusive attitude to family becomes clear to me when we all go out for Papa’s birthday dinner. “You know, you are now a grandmother,” Papa said, pointing at Neo, who was peering coyly at us through the beverage menus. I tried to explain that I was really the wife of Neo’s great-uncle. Papa just smiled at four generations around the same table. “Grandmother,” he insisted. “Yes, my baby. Grandmother.”


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