Archive for the ‘Inescapable Sensations’ Category

THE TYRANNY OF BAD SMELLS

December 21, 2009

“Well, I don’t smell anything.”

This is a phrase I have never uttered. However, as far as what others say to me, it’s the refrain of my life. “It’s the Johns nose,” says my mother, each time I, my brother, my father, my cousins or my father’s sisters complain bitterly about some desperately bad odor that is apparently undetectable to my mother. Some people are blessed with unusual senses or talents. But my powerful nose is a powerful curse.

Of course, I’m bound to say that I’ve been grateful for my nose more than once – there’s the time an absent-minded actress draped her costume on a scorching-hot dressing-room light bulb, or the time a guest tossed a lighted cigarette under the old floorboards. And I’ll admit, there is an oddly gratifying distinction in being the one to whom authority is given on the freshness of the milk.

But here, I am not speaking merely of life’s most obvious effluvia, like a family member who, twelve hours ago, ate four hardboiled eggs in one sitting. The world is, in fact, a far more varied olfactory minefield. Christmastime is particularly hazardous. I’ve heard that music encourages shoppers to spend more money, but I’m not aware of a principle stating that stifling bouquets of cinnamon potpourri at the entrance of middle-class retail establishments compel shoppers to buy, and I keep a mental list of the worst cinnamon offenders (I’m looking at you, Bed, Bath and Beyond, as if the Persimmon, Lakeside Birch and Moonlight Harvest candles aren’t enough). The smell is also at the top of my list of reasons for avoiding the subway, trumping both fear of assault and distaste for scenes featuring transit police and truculent, disoriented homeless. At every underground SEPTA entrance in the city, it smells as if someone recently relieved themselves and then immediately dumped a gallon of generic antibacterial hand soap on the pavement.

Of course, some of the most irritating nasal hazards are not a dingy environment, but the people themselves. Again, this is not limited to a mundane and obvious offense like coffee breath or that scourge of student get-togethers, Dorito breath. (I recently toured a cave in Oregon, where the guide explained that cave rats mark their way to the surface with urine. I thought that was what I smelled, but after dropping to the back of the group I found unexpected relief, and realized it had been the tour guide’s breath.) To all heavy wearers of cologne: like the atmosphere of a good-sized planet, your florid, nose-burning reek engulfs you and the seven seats in any direction. You trail the flowery tang like an invisible comet all the way down the hall. You are the reason I usually hold my breath when I pass other people.

Bad smells of the animal kingdom are not always obvious, either. Sure, you expect the stinkbug’s homely brown stench, but while you might like the dusty tomato sheen of a lucky ladybug, have you noticed their pungent, cloying smell? I avoid killing ants at home not because of any altruistic impulse, but because of their stinging acid smell. And millipedes have a dry, thick, heavy stink that drives me out of the room.

A bad smell is a deeper agony than a distasteful sight or an annoying sound. Most sounds, however infuriating, have an easily discernible and often transitory source, such as a car alarm, a speeding siren or a wailing baby, and it could be argued that as long as we have control of our eyelids we can immediately blot out any sight we want to avoid (like the scene in the movie where the grotesque, needle-toothed demon face appears). Eyes squeezed shut or hands clapped to the ears provide immediate relief, but your nose is unprotected. Sure, you can pinch your nose or breathe through your mouth (or follow the advice of the craven nasal defeatists who say “after a while you won’t notice the smell anymore”), but as long as you’re breathing, you’re imbibing the tainted air in an undeniable way, while the smell sinks into your hair and clothes. And a smell can’t be as easily eliminated as, for example, a piercing smoke alarm, despite Febreze commercials which claim that with one spray, slender pastel-clad housewives can disguise the fact that they have cats, a garbage can or a teenage son. If a mouse has the temerity to die under your fridge, the stench will grow worse by the day until you locate the source, jack up the fridge and sweep the putrid furry morsel out – but I guarantee that the odor won’t dissipate as soon as you can remove the rodent.

It is also a deep, often unfortunate truth of the human brain that smells, for good or ill, worm their way into your emotional memory like no other sensation: it could be something pleasant and innocuous, like your high-school summer camp roommates’ shampoo. But every year, when you come home from Christmas Eve church, you don’t want to think of that long-ago holiday evening when the dogs smashed a bottle of rum and then defecated in the pool of liquor – but that was a smell like no other. This is the tyranny of bad smells. They are inescapable and utterly varied: yesterday’s mildewed dishcloth, the banana peel in the trash, or the guy who removed his shoes and blasted them with aerosol deodorant on the packed rush-hour bus.

As my cousin, Johanna, and I helped to prepare our grandparents’ annual Christmas party, I fished the mayonnaise out of the fridge, unscrewed the cap, and brushed the jar airily past my nose, as if by accident, while I grabbed the spoon. The rich, slightly sharp and sweet odor of the mayo mingled with the mild honey-vinegar spice of Johanna’s Dijon mustard – all safe to serve.

“Does it pass the smell test?” Johanna, who had missed nothing, interrupted my olfactory reverie. Regardless of vast differences between us, there are ways that Jo and I are exactly the same. Despite the presence of those who would cry that they don’t smell a thing, I should have known that my cousin would never have faulted me for that crucial exploratory sniff.

To Each Her Own (Food)

July 22, 2009

I first encountered the green, slimy-sharp taste of cilantro in a Mexican restaurant downtown. Who knew such innocuous-looking little flakes could hijack a whole bowl of guacamole?

“Can you please be sure to leave the pico de gallo off?” I ask the Baja Fresh cashier. He turns to squint at the menu. “That dish doesn’t even have pico,” he says. I am relieved.  A bite of cilantro flares through my nose like an accidental snort of soapy water.

“Oh, just wait til you’re older, then you’ll like it,” was a phrase I heard a lot as a kid. Now I’ve given up hope that my adulthood would usher in a new era of culinary tolerance. Growing up has only cemented my fanatical finickiness.

I have an abiding fear of any rye or remotely seeded breads. I detest the brown, sick, cloying taste of caraway seeds. Don’t get me started on the thick, acrid slipperiness of Brussels sprouts. I can’t handle a green apple’s crisp, pinching sourness. And yes, the rich, greasy spice of pepperoni still rides on the cheese, even if I peel off the offending circles. I can’t let the pickled ginger touch my sushi – it will prickle rampant through my mouth and nose, spoiling the taste of everything else. I can’t stand the high, sickly-sweetness and subtle bitter finish of the artificial sugars in “lite” yogurt and juice.

Once, when I was in college, a concerned friend stopped me to ask me what the matter had been yesterday. He’d seen me with my boyfriend, gasping through tears, but had not wanted to interfere. That was the time I decided to try a bite of Lala’s General Tso’s Chicken, and ended up with a tiny red dagger on my tongue. It was my first and (I pray) my last oral inferno. The tingling scald of that pepper lingered on my lips for hours.

My other gastronomical grievances are mere annoyance compared to my abhorrence of peppers. Even round, cheerful bell peppers have an ominous, dewy smell that I assiduously avoid. The hot, dark, gravelly scent of the table pepper shaker raises a mild nausea with each whiff – I just have to pray that my dinner companions will decline that fresh ground pepper.

For me, no other food has the pepper’s ability to inflict not just a dreadful taste, but actual pain. I avoid peppers the same way I avoid sharp corners. The rest of my family craves spicy bayou shrimp, relishing the burn between crusty bites of bread. They love summertime blue-claws in a damp, steaming coat of rust-colored Old Bay. But this summer rite of Maryland finds me in the kitchen, gingerly rinsing my spiny portion, to keep that deep red grainy spice from overpowering the sweet crab. Bisques are also dicey, particularly since my love of seafood soups compels me to order them again and again with feverish hope, in my life’s refrain: “Is that a mild soup?”

The problem is that my conception of “mild” is its own absolute realm. To me, “mild” does not mean the dish possesses a hint of spice that plays nicely against the creamy avocado. “Mild” does not mean a bit of red pepper to add heat and texture to the sweet corn and crab. “Mild” means that not only does my food contain no peppers, but that ALL of the ingredients in my food have never touched a pepper (think the fried calamari plated with – red alert! –  jalapeno), or been prepared on a surface that recently touched a pepper (think a cheese steak grill when the customer before me ordered you-know-whats).  The bisque the wait staff calls mild is still a total crapshoot for me.  (Don’t listen to that Bonefish Grill waiter, the crab soup’s laced with pepper! Sansom Street Oyster House lobster bisque OK).

It’s a wonder that anyone ever eats dinner with me.

Now, because I sometimes CAN eat it, for politeness’ sake, there are those who imply that I am fabricating a pickiness that confers a special distinction, a childlike sensitivity that I imagine to be endearing. But I’d quit this weirdness in a second if I could. There are people like my grandfather who will clean their plate and yours, too, no matter what’s on it (“That ice cream isn’t freezer burned, it’s perfectly fine!”) This is a better, friendlier, heartier way of life. For me, each menu is a minefield of ginger, chilies or capers, overpowering seeds and herbs, cilantro mayonnaises, sun-dried pepper spreads, and unexpectedly hot, smoky ketchups. The guy at the deli who gave my BLT a wanton, unwonted and unwanted dash of pepper rendered my lunch inedible. I don’t go there much anymore. I don’t want to be the neurotic customer enunciating “do NOT put PEPPER on the SANDWICH” as if I’m one grain away from anaphylactic shock.

“I’m sorry!” the Baja Fresh cashier says as he hands me the bag. “It did come with pico after all. Do you want me to try to take it out?” I peek at my plate. The verdant green flecks of cilantro have already emigrated from their chunky tomato home to settle on the shores of the rice. What to do? Raise a fuss? Order again? Ask for a refund? Leave in a huff for somewhere less convenient, but cilantro-free? A line of normal, cilantro-eating customers is waiting and he’s the only one at the register. “No, I’ll take it, thank you anyway,” I answer. I’m quite dexterous with a fork. My lunch may yet be saved.

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